Dimensionless directional spreading function

Wave height [length]

&

Mean wave height [length]

Significant wave height [length]

The average height of the largest 1/*n *of all waves in a record [length]

Design wave height [length]

Ordered individual wave heights in a record (Equation II-1-115) [length]

Maximum wave height [length]

Root-mean-square of all measured wave heights [length]

Significant wave height [length]

Modulus of the elliptic integrals

Number of lags between waves in a sequence in a record (Equation II-1-169)

Wave number (= 2*π/L *= 2*π/CT*) [length-1]

Complete elliptic integral of the first kind

Pressure response factor (Equation II-1-43) [dimensionless]

Wave length [length]

Dimensionless parameter which is a function of *H/d *used in calculating water

particle velocities for a solitary wave (Equations II-1-92 & II-1-93) (Figure II-1-

17).

Moments of the wave spectrum

Dimensionless correction factor in determination of *η *from subsurface pressure

(Equation II-1-46)

Dimensionless parameter which is a function of *H/d *used in calculating water

particle velocities for a solitary wave (Equations II-1-92 & II-1-93) (Figure II-1-

17).

Number of waves in a record

Number of crests in the wave record

Number of zero-upcrossings in the wave record

The subscript 0 denotes deepwater conditions

Pressure at any distance below the fluid surface [force/length2]

II-1-118

Water Wave Mechanics

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