Probability density

Probability distribution function - fraction of events that a particular event is not

exceeded (Equation II-1-124)

&

Wave power or average energy flux per unit wave crest width transmitted across a

vertical plane perpendicular to the direction of wave advance (Equation II-1-59)

[length-force/time-length]

Atmospheric pressure [force/length2]

Total or absolute subsurface pressure -- includes dynamic, static, and atmospheric

pressures (Equation II-1-39) [force/length2]

Probability of exceedence (Equation II-1-128)

Spectral peakedness parameter proposed by Goda (1974) (Equation II-1-151)

Bernoulli constant (Equation II-1-102)

Cross-correlation coefficient - measures the degree of correlation between two

signals (Equation II-1-123)

Autocorrelation or autocovariance function of the sea state (Equation II-1-121)

Correlation coefficient describing the correlation between wave heights as a

function of and standard deviation σ (Equation II-1-169)

Correlation coefficient of the wave envelope, relating wave height variation

between successive wave heights (Equation II-1-173)

Dimensionless controlling parameter for the angular distribution that determines the

peakedness of the directional spreading

Wave period [time]

&

Mean wave period [time]

&c

Mean crest period [time]

&z

Mean zero-upcrossing wave period [time]

Average wave period between two neighboring wave crests (Equation II-1-116)

[time]

Wave period associated with the largest wave energy [time]

Sampling record length [time]

Total wave record length [time]

Zero-crossing wave period (Equation II-1-116) [time]

Most probable maximum wave period (Equation II-1-141) [time]

Fluid velocity (water particle velocity) in the x-direction [length/time]

Water Wave Mechanics

II-1-119

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