(*E C n*)0b0 ' (*E C n*)1b1

(II-3-10)

(8) From Part II-1, the height and energy of a monochromatic wave are given by

1

ρ*gH * 2

(II-3-11)

8

and the wave height at location 1 is thus related to the wave height in deep water by

(II-3-12)

0

1

(9) This equation is usually written as

(II-3-13)

where *K*s is called the shoaling coefficient and *K*r is the refraction coefficient. From the case of simple,

straight, and parallel contours, the value at *b*1 can be found from *b*0

1

1

1

1 & sin2 θ0

cos θ0

4

2

2

(II-3-14)

'

'

cos θ1

1 & sin2 θ1

II-3-10

Estimation of Nearshore Waves

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