P

Wave number vector (Equation II-3-4)

Angle between the plane across which energy is being transmitted and the direction

of wave advance [deg]

Mass density of water (salt water = 1,025 kg/m3 or 2.0 slugs/ft3; fresh water =

1,000kg/m3 or 1.94 slugs/ft3) [force-time2/length4]

Velocity potential at the free surface [length2/time]

Ω

Wave phase function (Equation II-3-3)

Wave celerity [length/time]

Wave group velocity [length/time]

Water depth [length]

Directional spectrum where x,y represents a location in geographic space, t

represents time, and f,θ represents a particular frequency-direction component

Water depth [length]

Wave height [length]

Wave number (= 2*π/L *= 2*π/CT*) [length-1]

Refraction coefficient [dimensionless]

Shoaling coefficient [dimensionless]

Wave length [length]

The subscript 0 denotes deepwater conditions

Wave period [time]

Ambient current vector (Equation II-3-30) [length/time]

n

Velocity potential at the free surface [length2/time]

II-3-40

Estimation of Nearshore Waves

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