Average of the highest 1/10 wave heights [length]

Significant wave height [length]

Wave height at incipient breaking [length]

Zero-moment wave height at breaking (Equation II-4-10) [length]

Maximum wave height (Equation II-4-17) [length]

Root-mean-square of all measured wave heights [length]

Root-mean-square wave height at breaking (Equation II-4-9) [length]

Equivalent unrefracted deepwater wave height [length]

Refraction coefficient [dimensionless]

Wave length [length]

Cross-shore and longshore components of lateral mixing [length/time2]

Ratio of wave group speed and phase speed

The subscript 0 denotes deepwater conditions

Percentage of waves breaking (Equation II-4-17)

Wave runup above the mean water level [length]

&

Mean runup [length]

Average of the highest 1/10 of the runups [length]

Average of the highest 1/3 of the runups [length]

Runup exceeded by 2 percent of the runup crests [length]

Cross-shore and longshore components of wave forcing [length/time2]

Maximum wave runup [length]

Cross-shore and longshore components of wind forcing [length/time2]

Cross-shore component of the cross-shore directed radiation stress [force/length]

Radiation stress component [force/length]

Wave period [time]

Total current in the surf zone (Equation II-4-30) [length/time]

Time- and depth-averaged cross-shore current [length/time]

Wind-driven current [length/time]

Oscillatory flow due to infragravity waves [length/time]

Oscillatory flow due to wind waves [length/time]

II-4-38

Surf Zone Hydrodynamics

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