Wave crest angle relative to bottom contours [deg]

Beach slope (tan *β *= length-rise/length-run)

Beach slope (tan *β *= length-rise/length-run) modified for wave setup

Empirical coefficient (= 0.4) (Equation II-4-14)

Breaker depth index (Equation II-4-3) [dimensionless]

Energy dissipation rate per unit surface area due to wave breaking

∆x

Shoreward displacement of the shoreline (Equation II-4-22) [length]

&

Mean water surface elevation about the still-water level [length]

&b

Setdown at the breaker point [length]

&max

Setup at the mean shoreline (Equation II-4-22) [length]

&s

Setup at the still-water shoreline (Equation II-4-21) [length]

Empirical decay coefficient (= 0.15) [dimensionless]

Surf similarity parameter (Equation II-4-1)

Constant (= 3.14159)

Mass density of water (salt water = 1,025 kg/m3 or 2.0 slugs/ft3; fresh water =

1,000kg/m3 or 1.94 slugs/ft3) [force-time2/length4]

Ωb

Breaker height index (Equation II-4-4) [dimensionless]

Empirically determined dimensionless functions of beach slope (Equations II-4-6

and II-4-7)

Bottom friction coefficient with typical values in the range 0.005 to 0.01

Wave group velocity [length/time]

Water depth [length]

Water depth at breaking [length]

Wave energy per unit surface area [length-force/length2]

Water depth [length]

Wave height [length]

Surf Zone Hydrodynamics

II-4-37

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