EM 1110-2-1100 (Change 1)
31 Jul 03
The transmission of waves through water.
That part of an incident wave that is returned seaward when a wave impinges on a steep beach, barrier, or other
Diagram showing the long-term distribution of wave height and direction.
Drop in water level outside of the breaker zone to conserve momentum as wave particle velocities and pressures
change prior to wave breaking.
See SETUP, WAVE.
An oscillatory wave having the form of a sinusoid.
See SOLITARY WAVE.
In ocean wave studies, a graph, table, or mathematical equation showing the distribution of wave energy as a
function of wave frequency. The spectrum may be based on observations or theoretical considerations. Several forms of
graphical display are widely used.
See STANDING WAVE.
The ratio or wave height to wavelength also known as sea steepness.
A series of waves from the same direction.
Change in wave energy due to the action of physical processes.
See TROCHOIDAL WAVE.
The lowest part of a wave form between successive crests. Also that part of a wave below still-water level.
Appendix A Glossary of Coastal Terminology