EM 1110-2-1100 (Part II)
30 Apr 02
Figure II-1-17. Functions M and N in solitary wave theory (Munk 1949)
H
' 0.78
(II-1-97)
d
max
(n) Laboratory studies have shown that the value of (H/d)max = 0.78 agrees better with observations for
oscillatory waves than for solitary waves and that the nearshore slope has a substantial effect on this ratio.
Other factors such as bottom roughness may also be involved. Tests of periodic waves with periods from 1
to 6 sec on slopes of m = 0.0, 0.05, 0.10, and 0.20 have shown (SPM 1984) that Hb/db ratios are approximately
equal to 0.83, 1.05, 1.19, and 1.32, respectively. Tests of single solitary waves on slopes from m = 0.01 to
m = 0.20 (SPM 1984) indicate an empirical relationship between the slope and the breaker height-to-water
depth ratio given by
Hb
' 0.75 % 25m & 112m 2 % 3870m 3
(II-1-98)
db
Water Wave Mechanics
II-1-49