Dimensionless scaling parameter used in the JONSWAP spectrum for fetch-limited

seas

Phillips' constant (= 0.0081) (Equation II-1-153)

Peak enhancement factor used in the JONSWAP spectrum for fetch-limited seas

Gamma function

∆p

Difference in pressure at a point due to the presence of the solitary wave

[force/length2]

∆t

Sampling interval (Equation II-1-144) [time]

Dimensionless pertubation expansion parameter

Spectral bandwidth used in the probability distribution for waves (Equation II-1-

150)

Wave steepness ( = *H*/*L*)

Vertical displacement of the water particle from its mean position (Equation II-1-

27) [length]

Displacement of the water surface relative to the SWL [length]

Sea state depicted in time series of the wave profile [length]

Time series of the wave profile at a point *x *and time *t *(Equation II-1-175) [length]

&

Mean or expected value of the sea state (Equation II-1-119) [length]

Envelope wave form of two or more superimposed wave trains (Equation II-1-48)

[length]

Root-mean-square surface elevation [length]

Angle between the plane across which energy is being transmitted and the direction

of wave advance [deg]

Principal (central) direction for the spectrum measured counterclockwise from the

principal wave direction [deg]

Spectral shape parameters controlling the shape and the sharpness of the spectral

peak of the Ochi-Hubble spectral model

Mean or expected value of the sea state (Equation II-1-119) [length]

Dimensionless Spectral width parameter

Horizontal displacement of the water particle from its mean position (Equation II-1-

26) [length]

II-1-116

Water Wave Mechanics

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