EM 1110-2-1100 (Part II)
30 Apr 02
Figure II-1-3. Profiles of particle velocity and acceleration
by Airy theory in relation to the surface elevation
where ξ is the horizontal displacement of the water particle from its mean position and ζ is the vertical
displacement from its mean position (Figure II-1-4). The above equations can be simplified by using the
relationship
2
2π
2πg
2πd
tanh
(II-1-28)
'
T
L
L
II-1-14
Water Wave Mechanics
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