EM 1110-2-1100 (Part II)
30 Apr 02
Figure II-1-4. Water particle displacements from mean position for shallow-water and deepwater waves
(d) Writing Equations II-1-29 and II-1-30 in the forms,
2
2πd
sinh
ξ
L
sin2 θ '
(II-1-31)
a
2π(z%d)
cosh
L
2
2πd
sinh
ζ
L
cos2 θ '
(II-1-32)
a
2π(z % d)
sinh
L
and adding gives
ξ2
ζ2
'1
(II-1-33)
%
A2
B2
in which A and B are
Water Wave Mechanics
II-1-17
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