EM 1110-2-1100 (Part II)
31 July 2003
II-4-8. Definitions of Symbols
α
Wave crest angle relative to bottom contours [deg]
β
Beach slope (tan β = length-rise/length-run)
β*
Beach slope (tan β = length-rise/length-run) modified for wave setup
Γ
Empirical coefficient (= 0.4) (Equation II-4-14)
γb
Breaker depth index (Equation II-4-3) [dimensionless]
δ
Energy dissipation rate per unit surface area due to wave breaking
∆x
Shoreward displacement of the shoreline (Equation II-4-22) [length]
&
η
Mean water surface elevation about the still-water level [length]
&b
η
Setdown at the breaker point [length]
&max
η
Setup at the mean shoreline (Equation II-4-22) [length]
&s
η
Setup at the still-water shoreline (Equation II-4-21) [length]
κ
Empirical decay coefficient (= 0.15) [dimensionless]
ξ
Surf similarity parameter (Equation II-4-1)
π
Constant (= 3.14159)
Mass density of water (salt water = 1,025 kg/m3 or 2.0 slugs/ft3; fresh water =
ρ
1,000kg/m3 or 1.94 slugs/ft3) [force-time2/length4]
Ωb
Breaker height index (Equation II-4-4) [dimensionless]
a, b
Empirically determined dimensionless functions of beach slope (Equations II-4-6
and II-4-7)
Bottom friction coefficient with typical values in the range 0.005 to 0.01
Cf
Cg
Wave group velocity [length/time]
d
Water depth [length]
db
Water depth at breaking [length]
Wave energy per unit surface area [length-force/length2]
E
Fbx, Fby
fm
g
h
Water depth [length]
H
Wave height [length]
Surf Zone Hydrodynamics
II-4-37
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