Chapter II-4. Surf Zone Hydrodynamics
Figure II-4-1. Breaker types
Breaker criteria.
Irregular waves. - Part-II-Chap40006
Figure II-4-2. Breaker depth index as a function of Hb/(gT2) (Weggel 1972)
EXAMPLE PROBLEM II-4-1
Figure II-4-3. Change in wave profile shape from outside the surf zone (a,b) to inside the surf zone (c,d). Measurements from Duck, NC (Ebersole 1987)
Irregular waves. - Part-II-Chap40010
Figure II-4-4. Transformation of Hrms with depth based on the individual wave approach and the Dally, Dean, and Dalrymple (1985) model
Figure II-4-5. NMLONG simulation of wave height transformation (Leadbetter Beach, Santa Barbara, California, 3 Feb 1980 (Thornton and Guza 1986))
Figure II-4-6. Shallow-water transformation of wave spectra (solid line - incident, d = 3.0m; dotted line - incident breaking zone, d = 1.7m; dashed line - surf zone, d = 1.4m)
Wave Setup
Figure II-4-7. Definition sketch for wave setup
Wave Runup on Beaches
Figure II-4-8. Irregular wave setup for plane slope of 1/100
EXAMPLE PROBLEM II-4-2
Figure II-4-11. Definition sketch for wave runup
Irregular waves
EXAMPLE PROBLEM II-4-3
Nearshore Currents
Figure II-4-13. Measured cross-shore and longshore flow velocities
Figure II-4-14. Nearshore circulation systems
Longshore current.
Figure II-4-15. Longshore current profiles (solid line - no lateral mixing; dashed lines - with lateral mixing)
Figure II-4-16. Equation II-4-37 compared with field and laboratory data (Komar 1979)
California, 3 Feb 1989 (Thornton and Guza 1986))
Figure II-4-18. Field measurement of cross-shore flow on a barred profile (Duck, North Carolina, October 1990)
References - Part-II-Chap40030
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap40031
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap40032
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap40033
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap40034
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap40035
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap40036
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap40037
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap40038
Definitions of Symbols - Part-II-Chap40039
Definitions of Symbols (cont) - Part-II-Chap40040
Definitions of Symbols (cont) - Part-II-Chap40041
Acknowledgments - Part-II-Chap40042
Part-II-Chap4
Figure II-4-1. Breaker types
Breaker criteria.
Irregular waves. - Part-II-Chap40006
Figure II-4-2. Breaker depth index as a function of Hb/(gT2) (Weggel 1972)
EXAMPLE PROBLEM II-4-1
Figure II-4-3. Change in wave profile shape from outside the surf zone (a,b) to inside the surf zone (c,d). Measurements from Duck, NC (Ebersole 1987)
Irregular waves. - Part-II-Chap40010
Figure II-4-4. Transformation of Hrms with depth based on the individual wave approach and the Dally, Dean, and Dalrymple (1985) model
Figure II-4-5. NMLONG simulation of wave height transformation (Leadbetter Beach, Santa Barbara, California, 3 Feb 1980 (Thornton and Guza 1986))
Figure II-4-6. Shallow-water transformation of wave spectra (solid line - incident, d = 3.0m; dotted line - incident breaking zone, d = 1.7m; dashed line - surf zone, d = 1.4m)
Wave Setup
Figure II-4-7. Definition sketch for wave setup
Wave Runup on Beaches
Figure II-4-8. Irregular wave setup for plane slope of 1/100
EXAMPLE PROBLEM II-4-2
Figure II-4-11. Definition sketch for wave runup
Irregular waves
EXAMPLE PROBLEM II-4-3
Nearshore Currents
Figure II-4-13. Measured cross-shore and longshore flow velocities
Figure II-4-14. Nearshore circulation systems
Longshore current.
Figure II-4-15. Longshore current profiles (solid line - no lateral mixing; dashed lines - with lateral mixing)
Figure II-4-16. Equation II-4-37 compared with field and laboratory data (Komar 1979)
California, 3 Feb 1989 (Thornton and Guza 1986))
Figure II-4-18. Field measurement of cross-shore flow on a barred profile (Duck, North Carolina, October 1990)
References - Part-II-Chap40030
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap40031
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap40032
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap40033
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap40034
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap40035
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap40036
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap40037
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap40038
Definitions of Symbols - Part-II-Chap40039
Definitions of Symbols (cont) - Part-II-Chap40040
Definitions of Symbols (cont) - Part-II-Chap40041
Acknowledgments - Part-II-Chap40042
Part-II-Chap4
