EM 1110-2-1100 (Part II)
30 Apr 02
Figure II-3-5.
Wave-height variation along a wave ray
(E C n)0b0 ' (E C n)1b1
(II-3-10)
(8) From Part II-1, the height and energy of a monochromatic wave are given by
1
ρgH 2
E'
(II-3-11)
8
and the wave height at location 1 is thus related to the wave height in deep water by
Cg
b0
H1 ' H0
(II-3-12)
0
Cg
b1
1
(9) This equation is usually written as
H1 ' H0 Ks Kr
(II-3-13)
where Ks is called the shoaling coefficient and Kr is the refraction coefficient. From the case of simple,
straight, and parallel contours, the value at b1 can be found from b0
1
1
1
1 & sin2 θ0
bo
cos θ0
4
2
2
Kr '
(II-3-14)
'
'
b1
cos θ1
1 & sin2 θ1
II-3-10
Estimation of Nearshore Waves
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