Chapter II-3. Estimation of Nearshore Waves
Figure II-3-1. Waves propagating through shallow water influenced by the underlying bathymetry and currents
Figure II-3-2. Amplification of wave height behind a shoal for waves with different spreads of energy in frequency and direction
Principles of Wave Transformation
Types of wave transformation.
Refraction and Shoaling
Figure II-3-3. Straight shore with all depth contours evenly spaced and parallel to the shoreline
Figure II-3-4. Idealized plots of wave rays
Straight and parallel contours.
Figure II-3-5. Wave-height variation along a wave ray
Realistic bathymetry.
Figure II-3-6. Solution nomogram
EXAMPLE PROBLEM II-3-1
EXAMPLE PROBLEM II-3-1 (cont)
Problems in ray approach.
Figure II-3-7. Highly regular bathymetry but undulatory contours
Alternate formulations.
Transformation of Irregular Waves
Advanced Propagation Methods
The three models discussed below are all steady-state models.
Examples of RCPWAVE results.
Figure II-3-8. Typical RCPWAVE application, bathymetry
Figure II-3-9. Typical RCPWAVE application, wave height
Data requirements for RCPWAVE.
Wave damping mechanisms.
Data requirements for REFDIF.
Figure II-3-10. Bathymetry input to REF/DIF1 for a simulation of wave propagations at Revere Beach, MA
Figure II-3-11. Wave heights calculated by REF/DIF 1
Examples of STWAVE results.
Figure II-3-12. Spectral model results compared to laboratory measurements for broad directional spectrum
Guidance for Performing Wave Transformation Studies
Figure II-3-14. STWAVE results for CHL's Field Research Facility at Duck, NC
Table II-3-2. Guidance for Selection of Wave Transformation Methods
References - Part-II-Chap30038
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap30039
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap30040
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap30041
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap30042
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap30043
Definitions of Symbols - Part-II-Chap30044
Acknowledgments - Part-II-Chap30045
Part-II-Chap3
Figure II-3-1. Waves propagating through shallow water influenced by the underlying bathymetry and currents
Figure II-3-2. Amplification of wave height behind a shoal for waves with different spreads of energy in frequency and direction
Principles of Wave Transformation
Types of wave transformation.
Refraction and Shoaling
Figure II-3-3. Straight shore with all depth contours evenly spaced and parallel to the shoreline
Figure II-3-4. Idealized plots of wave rays
Straight and parallel contours.
Figure II-3-5. Wave-height variation along a wave ray
Realistic bathymetry.
Figure II-3-6. Solution nomogram
EXAMPLE PROBLEM II-3-1
EXAMPLE PROBLEM II-3-1 (cont)
Problems in ray approach.
Figure II-3-7. Highly regular bathymetry but undulatory contours
Alternate formulations.
Transformation of Irregular Waves
Advanced Propagation Methods
The three models discussed below are all steady-state models.
Examples of RCPWAVE results.
Figure II-3-8. Typical RCPWAVE application, bathymetry
Figure II-3-9. Typical RCPWAVE application, wave height
Data requirements for RCPWAVE.
Wave damping mechanisms.
Data requirements for REFDIF.
Figure II-3-10. Bathymetry input to REF/DIF1 for a simulation of wave propagations at Revere Beach, MA
Figure II-3-11. Wave heights calculated by REF/DIF 1
Examples of STWAVE results.
Figure II-3-12. Spectral model results compared to laboratory measurements for broad directional spectrum
Guidance for Performing Wave Transformation Studies
Figure II-3-14. STWAVE results for CHL's Field Research Facility at Duck, NC
Table II-3-2. Guidance for Selection of Wave Transformation Methods
References - Part-II-Chap30038
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap30039
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap30040
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap30041
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap30042
References (cont) - Part-II-Chap30043
Definitions of Symbols - Part-II-Chap30044
Acknowledgments - Part-II-Chap30045
Part-II-Chap3
