EM 1110-2-1100 (Part II)
30 Apr 02
Figure II-1-10. Wave profile shape of different progressive gravity waves
(i) Following Stokes, using higher-order wave theories, both theoretical and experimental studies of
mass transport have been conducted (Miche 1944; Ursell 1953; Longuet-Higgins 1953; Russell and Osorio
1958; Isaacson 1978). Results of two-dimensional wave tank experiments where a return flow existed in
these studies show that the vertical distribution of the mass transport velocity is modified so that the net
transport of water across a vertical plane is zero. For additional information on mass transport, see Dean and
Dalrymple (1991).
(3) Subsurface pressure.
(a) Higher-order Stokes theories introduce corrections to the linear wave theory, and often provide more
accurate estimates of the wave kinematics and dynamics. For example, the second-order Stokes theory gives
the pressure at any distance below the fluid surface as
II-1-34
Water Wave Mechanics
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