EM 1110-2-1100 (Part II)
30 Apr 02
Mass density of water (salt water = 1,025 kg/m3 or 2.0 slugs/ft3; fresh water =
ρ
1,000kg/m3 or 1.94 slugs/ft3) [force-time2/length4]
ρη
Autocorrelation coefficient (Equation II-1-122)
ση
Standard deviation or square root of the variance
Velocity potential [length2/time]
Φ
Φ
Weighing factor (Equation II-1-159)
Ψ
Stream function
ω
a
Wave amplitude [length]
A, B
Major- (horizontal) and minor- (vertical) ellipse semi-axis of wave particle motion
(Equations II-1-34 and II-1-35) [length]. The lengths of A and B are measures of
the horizontal and vertical displacements of the water particles (Figure II-1-4).
Dimensionless Fourier coefficients (Equation II-1-103)
Bj
C
Phase velocity or wave celerity ( = L/T = ω/k) [length/time]
C(s)
Dimensionless constant satisfying the normalization condition
Cg
Wave group velocity [length/time]
cn
Jacobian elliptic cosine function
d
Water depth [length]
E
E(ω)
Phillips' equilibrium range of the spectrum for a fully-developed sea in deep water
(Equation II-1-153)
E(f)
One-dimensional spectrum or frequency energy spectrum or wave energy spectral
density (Equation II-1-144)
&
Total average wave energy per unit surface area or specific energy or energy
E
density (Equation II-1-58) [length-force/length2]
&k
E
Kinetic energy per unit length of wave crest for a linear wave (Equation II-1-53)
[length-force/length2]
&p
E
Potential energy per unit length of wave crest for a linear wave (Equation II-1-55)
[length-force/length2]
E[η]
Mean or expected value of the sea state (Equation II-1-119) [length]
F
Fetch length [length]
fp
Frequency of the spectral peak used in the JONSWAP spectrum for fetch-limited
seas [time-1]
Water Wave Mechanics
II-1-117
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